Vetements Collaborations After Demna, 2019–Present

Vetements did not stop collaborating when Demna left on 16 September 2019. It did, however, abandon the density that had defined his five years at the label.

The first post-departure release was the exception: a 44-piece Star Wars capsule arrived three months later and almost certainly began before Demna's exit. After that handover, the confirmed record contracts to New Rock footwear, Elie Saab eveningwear, a Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Steiff coat, limited returns to DHL and Reebok, and a licensed Cradle of Filth capsule whose exact date remains unresolved.

The practical answer is not that Vetements banned collaborations. It became highly selective about them. For the much longer earlier record, see Vetements collaborations under Demna.

The post-Demna chronology

The date below is the first confirmed announcement, runway appearance, or retail release. The final column distinguishes a continuing Demna-era relationship from a project developed under the later label.

No later released partnership has been added without a named brand attribution or product record. That boundary matters because recent Vetements collections still use recognisable corporate and media imagery that can look collaborative without being one.

Star Wars belongs to the release date, not a settled designer

Vetements announced the Star Wars capsule on 10 December 2019, opened online sales on 16 December, and followed with an SSENSE worldwide exclusive and lookbook on 20 December. The 44 pieces covered menswear and womenswear: T-shirts, oversized hoodies, socks, caps, backpacks, outerwear, knitwear, evening dresses, heels, and thigh-high boots using imagery from the film series.

Distribution matched the scale. SSENSE carried the worldwide exclusive; Harrods and Flannels sold it in the UK, The Webster in the US, and Tsum hosted a Moscow launch on 12 December.

The most unusual piece was also the most complicated credit. Two versions of the Reebok Instapump Fury “Star Wars” appeared within the capsule, one relatively plain and one covered in graffiti. Retailer copy attributed the shoes to both Reebok and Star Wars, making them a genuine three-way product rather than two overlapping resale descriptions.

The capsule is listed here because it released after Demna left. That does not establish that it was conceived without him. Licensing, manufacturing, and arranging a worldwide exclusive for 44 products would ordinarily begin more than twelve weeks before launch, yet no published source identifies the individual designer. The accurate attribution is therefore post-departure release, unresolved handover authorship.

What continued from the Demna years

Very little of the previous network remained active.

A current resale listing does not make an old partnership current. Vetements x Manolo Blahnik boots, for example, still trade years after their February 2017 launch. Date the object through its product code, season, and original release—not the date on a marketplace listing.

New Rock became the principal footwear partner

New Rock supplied the clearest post-Demna product collaboration. Its Spanish platform-boot language was rebuilt into the exaggerated sneaker forms shown in Vetements' Fall 2022 collection, the first runway season credited to Guram Gvasalia after his appointment as creative director.

Retail versions included black platform hybrids, the banknote-covered Million Dollar colourway released in August 2022 at roughly $700–$800, and a silver iteration in July 2023. These are related phases of one partnership, not three unrelated collaborations.

When buying secondhand, identify the exact upper, platform tooling, hardware, and colourway. “Vetements x New Rock” establishes the partnership but not the release within it.

Elie Saab and the teddy-bear coat were construction projects

The Spring 2024 Elie Saab looks joined the visual language of two houses instead of placing a partner logo on a basic. Vetements T-shirts became the bodices of ball gowns with skirts extending to six metres. The point of the pairing was the collision between Vetements' ordinary graphic top and Saab's eveningwear construction.

The Spring 2025 project with Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Steiff was similarly specific. It revisited Castelbajac's 1987 coat made from teddy bears, with Steiff—the historic toy manufacturer—producing the bears. A listing that names only Vetements x Steiff or only Vetements x Castelbajac describes part of the credit, not the entire project.

Why the list became shorter

Guram Gvasalia explained the change in a September 2022 interview. In his account, collaboration is worthwhile when another company is needed to make the product properly; without that reason, it becomes an attention device. He also argued that the wider fashion industry's saturation of collaborations had made the format feel exhausted.

That view is consistent with Vetements' own origin story. The label began reworking vintage Levi's because it could not find a denim manufacturer producing what it wanted, then expanded the method to companies already associated with particular product categories.

Guram did not announce a permanent prohibition, and the chronology proves there was none. The later approach is better described as fewer partnerships tied to a particular material, construction, or image, with licensed entertainment capsules becoming much less common after Star Wars.

Keep VTMNTS separate

Guram announced VTMNTS on 22 July 2021 as a separate all-gender tailoring label. It shared resources with Vetements but had its own name, collection, and product identity, beginning with a 100-look Spring/Summer 2022 debut.

This matters when following collaboration leads. A Reebok product attributed to VTMNTS is not automatically a Vetements collaboration, even when the same creative director and group sit behind both. The VTMNTS x Reebok lead remains undated and insufficiently documented for the chronology above.

Recognisable imagery is not enough

The same caution applies to Spring 2027 eyewear described online as a renewed Oakley collaboration. Runway appearance and resemblance alone are not enough; without a house credit, partner announcement, or retail record, it remains an open lead rather than a confirmed return.

The unresolved edge of the record

The Cradle of Filth capsule is a real licensed project: retailer descriptions name the capsule, and the products use identifiable album and lyric material across T-shirts, hoodies, sweatpants, jeans, and a multi-T-shirt maxi dress. Its placement after Demna is still an inference. The catalogue records sit alongside later stock, but no dated announcement has been found.

Two other products cannot yet be assigned to either era:

• Wolford: co-branded monogram tights listed at $150.
• SVMoscow: an “ОХРАНА” security T-shirt made with the Moscow retailer, closer to a store-exclusive edition than a jointly designed range.

The existence of those objects is secure; their dates are not. Neither is counted in the chronology. Alpha Industries after 2019 and the VTMNTS x Reebok attribution remain unresolved for the same reason.

Sources and scope

This record distinguishes named collaborations and licences from celebrity dressing, visual reference, retail resale, and exhibition inclusion. It uses first announcements, runway dates, retailer product copy, and style codes where available. The current check extends through September 2026; the last dated, confirmed entry remains the September 2024 DHL runway return.

Sparse press coverage makes small regional releases easier to miss in this era than in Demna's. An absence here therefore means no adequately documented release found, not proof that no object was ever produced.