Yohji Yamamoto's Lines Explained: Y's, Pour Homme, Y-3, and the Rest

Yohji Yamamoto works through a group of core brands, collections, capsules, and collaborations that serve different wardrobes. The company's official collection index separates eight current brands from a wider menu of projects. For a secondhand piece, the full label name establishes its place in that structure before price, date, or category can be compared.

The Line-Up

Numbered counts are a snapshot of articles indexed in Wardatrobe when this guide was prepared. A brand page can exist before every historical product has been added.

Y's Came First — By Nine Years

Y's predates the Paris mainline. Yamamoto established Y's in 1972, presented its first Tokyo collection in 1977, and showed in Paris in 1981. Yohji Yamamoto Inc. followed in 1984. These dates come from the company's own designer chronology.

Y's larger Wardatrobe article count reflects its longer history. It is the original menswear-influenced womenswear label through which Yamamoto built his early reputation.

Today the Y's atelier team carries Yamamoto's philosophy into the collection. The house presents this as continuity through the patternmakers and designers who work inside the studio.

Y's for men is a separate men's brand first launched in 1979. It returned for Autumn/Winter 2023–24 after a 13-year hiatus and remains active. The relaunch draws on Yamamoto's original menswear approach rather than treating the name as a one-season archive revival.

LIMI feu is designed by Limi Yamamoto. The label was founded in 1999 and presented its first collection for Autumn/Winter 2000, initially under the Y's bis name before becoming LIMI feu. Its sharper, youthful proportions give the company a second named designer voice rather than another Yohji-led diffusion tier.

Y's

Wool Gabardine Military Coat

Wool Gabardine Military Coat

Y's

[Y's Born Product] Thin Cotton Twill Half Sleeve Box Shirt

[Y's Born Product] Thin Cotton Twill Half Sleeve Box Shirt

Y's

Airy Mosser Wrap Coat

Airy Mosser Wrap Coat

Y's

Wool Gabardine Sailor Collar Coat

Wool Gabardine Sailor Collar Coat

The Paris Mainline and Pour Homme

Yohji Yamamoto womenswear launched with the 1981 Paris debut. Yohji Yamamoto POUR HOMME has been presented in Paris since 1984, according to the company's official menswear profile. Yohji Yamamoto Collections, introduced for Autumn/Winter 2021–22, sits alongside them as a wardrobe-focused collection of practical house signatures.

Yamamoto designs both lines. They also occupy the highest regular price tier in the house: mainline coat prices recorded in our catalog range roughly $1,140–$2,730, compared with about $670–$1,180 for Y's coats. Pour Homme runs similarly, while pieces made with partners such as Pendleton or Vanson Leathers can reach about $2,700–$5,900.

Yohji Yamamoto

Overdye Wool Viera Reversible Hooded Coat

Overdye Wool Viera Reversible Hooded Coat

Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme

Celllose Lawn Notched Shirt

Celllose Lawn Notched Shirt

Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme

Yohji Yamamoto × Vanson Leathers Bone Jacket

Yohji Yamamoto × Vanson Leathers Bone Jacket

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto Button-Up Straight Hem Coat

Yohji Yamamoto Button-Up Straight Hem Coat

Y-3: adidas and Yohji Yamamoto

Y-3 is the continuing collaboration between adidas and Yohji Yamamoto. adidas for Yohji Yamamoto footwear began in 2001, and Y-3 launched in 2002. The line combines adidas performance development and distribution with Yamamoto's design direction.

For Autumn/Winter 2026–27, the partnership added Yohji Yamamoto Y-3 KURO, a continuing black unisex line that brings the collaboration closer to the designer's core wardrobe.

Y-3 sneakers recorded in Wardatrobe range from about $235 to $510. Compare them with other Y-3 footwear rather than mainline tailoring because the collaboration has its own categories, manufacturing, and distribution.

Y-3

Y-3 Adios Pro 4 Lace-Up Sneakers

Y-3 Adios Pro 4 Lace-Up Sneakers

Y-3

Y-3 Avacourt 2 Tennis Sneakers

Y-3 Avacourt 2 Tennis Sneakers

Y-3

Y-3 Runner Sneakers

Y-3 Runner Sneakers

Y-3

Y-3 Zip-Up Hooded Down Coat

Y-3 Zip-Up Hooded Down Coat

Ground Y, S'YTE, discord, and WILDSIDE

The company gives each of these contemporary labels a specific brief and, in several cases, a clear design attribution:

• Ground Y launched in September 2014 around a genderless, ageless wardrobe. The company presents it as a Yohji Yamamoto Inc. platform without a separate named director. Coats recorded in Wardatrobe run about $390–$660.
• S'YTE launched in September 2011 as an online-exclusive casual line designed by Yohji Yamamoto Inc.'s creative team. It remains online-led while also appearing through pop-ups, collaborations, and selected physical locations. T-shirts start around $120 in our catalog, with jackets around $210–$345.
• discord Yohji Yamamoto was presented in New York in February 2014 and is explicitly attributed to Yohji Yamamoto. It focuses on bags, small leather goods, jewelry, and accessories shaped by Japanese ideas of restraint and negative space. Bag prices recorded in Wardatrobe run about $435–$1,820.
• WILDSIDE YOHJI YAMAMOTO launched online in July 2022. It combines collaborations with brands and artists with Yohji Yamamoto Inc.'s own original unisex collection, all organized around black.

Regulation Yohji Yamamoto began in Spring/Summer 2013. The company describes it as Yamamoto-designed “one-mile wear”: relaxed clothes intended to move between home and the city.

Ground Y

Double Weave Melton Unrrimmed Hooded Coat

Double Weave Melton Unrrimmed Hooded Coat

S'yte

40/2 Jersey Braided T-Shirt

40/2 Jersey Braided T-Shirt

Discord Yohji Yamamoto

Macrame Bag

Macrame Bag

Ground Y

Ground Y×Edwin 9Oz Black Twill China Jacket

Ground Y×Edwin 9Oz Black Twill China Jacket

Price Tiers, As Recorded In Our Catalogue

These are price ranges observed across articles in Wardatrobe when this guide was prepared. They are reference points rather than a complete list of retail prices for every season and market.

S'YTE and Ground Y occupy the lower end of these observed ranges. Y's overlaps with mainline at the top of its range but starts lower, while Pour Homme prices move sharply when a piece uses a named manufacturing partner.

Jewelry, scent, shirts, and home goods

Not every entry in the company menu is a full ready-to-wear brand:

• Yohji Yamamoto by RIEFE launched in 2021 under Rie Harui, creative director of RIEFE JEWELLERY. The rings, pendants, and related pieces recorded in Wardatrobe range from about $130 to $2,170.
• GOTHIC YOHJI YAMAMOTO is a revived line originating in the Paris atelier. Silver accessories are central, but the official range also includes T-shirts.
• power of the WHITE shirt launched on September 16, 2022 with Yohji Yamamoto credited as designer. It explores the white shirt through changing fabrics, volumes, and construction.
• L'odeur Yohji Yamamoto launched in 2022 as a scent and lifestyle collection.
• The towels cataloged by Wardatrobe as Yohji Yamamoto MAISON come from the official Yohji Yamamoto TOWEL project with IKEUCHI ORGANIC, launched December 1, 2021. “MAISON” is Wardatrobe's catalog name for those home-textile entries rather than the formal project title used in the company announcement.

Yohji Yamamoto By Riefe

Sv/Bk Ruthenium Spike Ring

Sv/Bk Ruthenium Spike Ring

Gothic Yohji Yamamoto

Silver 950 Gothic Chain Necklace 45Cm

Silver 950 Gothic Chain Necklace 45Cm

Power Of The White Shirt

60/-Lawn Big Shirt

60/-Lawn Big Shirt

Yohji Yamamoto Maison

Signature Long Face Towel

Signature Long Face Towel

Y's capsules and historical labels

Y's BANG ON! is a numbered, seasonless, unisex collection based on menswear patterns and designs from the Yamamoto archive. The Y's family also includes current capsules and product groups such as Under Y's, Y's Denim Essentials, Y's EYEWEAR, Y's....: GENDER NEUTRAL, and Y's PRE-FALL. These sit within Y's rather than forming equivalent standalone runway houses.

Several other names help place older or specialized pieces:

• Costume d'Homme is a Pour Homme tailoring designation rather than a separately credited designer brand.
• Coming Soon is a historical line developed with the Italian company Sinv.
• Yohji Yamamoto +NOIR is an archived black-focused everyday-wear line whose official collection archive runs through Autumn/Winter 2020–21.
• D'URBAN A.A.R is a historical Yohji Yamamoto and D'Urban menswear collaboration, commonly dated from 1992 through Spring/Summer 2008.
• Yohji JEANS names the denim project developed with Edwin. Contemporary reporting announced a planned June 2012 launch in Europe and the United States; identify surviving pieces by the full co-branded label.
• Yohji Yamamoto MARIAGE appears as a discrete Wardatrobe brand entry. Preserve the complete line name when cataloging a piece so future articles and primary material can be attached to the correct record.

Where Wardatrobe shows zero indexed articles, that is a catalog snapshot. It does not determine whether a line is active, archived, or discontinued.

How To Read a Label

The names themselves are the first signal, and small typography differences matter: it is Y's with the apostrophe, S'YTE with one, and discord Yohji Yamamoto in lowercase house styling. A Y-3 tag carries adidas branding because it belongs to the collaboration. For precise season dating, combine the product code and care label with a dated runway, lookbook, or official shop archive; no single tag layout covers every label and period in this family.

Add Your Pieces to Wardatrobe

Create a free Wardatrobe account and catalog the pieces you own in your digital wardrobe. For clothing and footwear, record the tagged size and mark the fit as true to size, runs small, or runs large. These entries help Wardatrobe build better reference and sizing data across a family this fragmented. Already a member? Open your wardrobe.